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When compiling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known award-winning establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This recognition has left the family totally surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks the family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary triumph.