Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – hidden delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to explore these tales and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
